It sounds counterintuitive, but one of the most beneficial pieces of training you can give your dog is to do nothing.
No, not literally nothing. The goal is a calm, deliberate lack of reaction to the distractions and overstimulating environments that daily life is full of. A dog that has learned this skill can sit, lay down, and truly relax almost anywhere. Picnics in the park or meals at crowded cafes become much more calm when your dog is resting, not coiled up to pounce at squirrels or mooch bits of food from a nearby table.
Do note, not every dog is a ‘brewery dog’, even after extensive training. But having your dog practice just being will take you far existing in the world outside your house.
What is the “Place” or “Settle” Command?
Teaching “place” or “settle” (whichever you’d prefer!) gives your dog a cue that the current situation calls for relaxation rather than excitement.
It might look similar to a sit or stay command, but the difference is significant. In asking your dog to sit or stay, it’s typically short and in anticipation of something. Your dog is staying in a position either waiting for a treat or on call for the next command.
Place and settle is asking your dog to remove all anticipation. The goal is to help your dog understand that they are not going anywhere anytime soon, and that nothing in the environment requires their attention or energy.
Why Teaching “Place” or “Settle” Matters
Dogs are excitable by nature. It’s one of the reasons we love them. Most dogs encounter more stimulation on a single walk than they know what to with. Smells, cars, cyclists, skateboards, children, squirrels, and other dogs all compete for their attention at once. If the default response to the stimulating environment is reactivity, it can make for unpleasant outings.
A dog that has learned to be calm in the face of distraction is able to go more places. They can calmly sit outside with you at coffee shops or weave through dog-friendly stores. Even out in nature and away from people, they can turn away the urge to chase after every rustle in the forest.
The skill matters for reactive dogs especially, but it is not only an issue for reactive dogs. All dogs benefit from learning that stillness is a valid and rewarding response to the world. The more comfortable a dog becomes at this, the more confidently and calmly they can handle new environments.
How to Start: Training a Dog to Settle
The key to place and settle training is starting simple. Before introducing any distractions, your dog needs to understand what the behavior looks like in a calm and familiar environment.
Step 1: Choose a spot
Pick a mat, bed, or defined area and make it your dog’s initial “settle spot.” The physical boundary of a mat is helpful so your dog has a concrete space to learn. We love using our Sleeping Bag for this purpose. Super easy to jam in the stuff sack and take with you, and easy to wipe down with the ripstop outer fabric.
Step 2: Ask your dog to go there and relax
Guide your dog to the spot and wait for them to settle. Reward them for calm behavior, even if it’s just a few seconds of stillness. They’ll begin building an association between the space and relaxed behavior. When delivering a treat, place it between your dog’s front paws as an indication to stay settled instead of popping up for the reward.
Step 3: Extend the duration
Once your dog understands the concept, the best practice is to slowly extend the time they settle before receiving another treat. Keep sessions short and positive at first, which will keep them from getting frustrated: the opposite of calm.
Varying rewards (different treats, petting, verbal praise) will keep them interested as their settling time increases.
Place and Settle Outside: Introducing Distractions
Once your dog has a solid foundation at home, the real training begins! Moving outdoors, there will be plenty out of your control, so starting in the right spaces with just enough distractions is key.
Start with Mild Distractions
Introduce distractions incrementally so your dog can feel success at each step. If your dog struggles around other dogs, start by practicing settle at a distance where they can see another dog but remain calm. Over time, as your dog demonstrates they can hold the settle reliably, you can move closer to the distractions and busier areas.
Read Your Dog’s Body Language
A dog that is holding a settle but showing stiff posture, a tucked tail, or fixated attention on a distraction is not truly settled. They may not be calm, but they are trying! The goal is a dog that is loose, relaxed, and happy to be calm. With time and reassurance, they will become more comfortable.
When Your Dog Breaks the Behavior
It’s inevitable that your dog will get either excited or frustrated. Resist the urge to repeat the command multiple times. It’s important to calmly reset the position, or if the energy is too frantic, you can try again at an easier spot.
A broken settle or place is helpful information. It usually means the distraction was too close, too intense, or introduced too quickly. Try backing away to a spot just below their threshold of distraction and trying again.
Reinforcing Positive Behavior
Reinforcement is what turns an occasional behavior into a reliable one. For place and settle training, timing matters more than most other training. Bring the treat to your dog while they are still settled and reward them in position, rather than rewarding them after they have left the settle. Rewarding the release reinforces an excited behavior rather than a calm behavior, which works against what you are building.
In the early stages, reward quick and often to build a strong association. As your dog holds more reliably, gradually stretch out the time between rewards and change up the types of rewards. Calm verbal praise or petting can be just as effective as a treat.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
There are a few patterns that consistently slow down settle training. Knowing what to watch for can save a lot of frustration for both you and your dog, especially when you’re so close to reaching that zen outing of your dreams.
Moving too Fast
The most common mistake is introducing too many distractions before the foundation is solid. If your dog can only hold a settle for 30 seconds or a minute at home, they’re not yet ready for the crowd. Rushing the process almost always means having to go back to basics later on. Make sure to build slowly and let your dog’s consistency be the indicator they are ready for the next level.
Repeating the Command
If your dog breaks their settle, the natural instinct is to repeat the command. While it will get their attention, this will teach your dog that the first cue is optional and that the command counts more if it’s used in repetition or urgently. Give the cue once, and if there needs to be a reset, do it calmly and let there be a break in between.
Rewarding the Wrong Moment
As mentioned in the reinforcement section, timing matters. Rewarding your dog the moment they break a settle, or when you excitedly break a release, indicates they should also be excited and anticipating something to happen. Stay patient and reward only when your dog is calm and in position.
Nothing is the Key to Bigger Adventures
A dog that has learned the art of doing nothing is a dog that can go everywhere with you. The world becomes much more accessible when dogs are both outwardly and inwardly calm. Hopefully the process can help you find some calmness, too!
Start small and trust the process. It will pay off. A dog who learns to settle has been given the tools to feel comfortable in the world.
